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SERVICE CORNER |
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Service Corner A GENERAL GUIDE TO SEWING MACHINE—NEEDLE SELECTION
Bernina info: Bernina Bobbins are perfectly balanced to give an even bobbin tension. We do not recommend using inexpensive/generic bobbins as some machines have low thread indicators & these bobbins will not work in this system. Bob Smith, Senior technician, Bernina of America
Are you frustrated with your machine missing stitches, snagging your fabric or just producing lousy stitches? If you have inserted a brand new needle, check that your machine is properly threaded and that your bobbin is inserted in the correct direction. Also, check that you are using the correct type of needle for the fabric you are sewing. The following is a general guide to help you in selecting the right needle for your project. Note: Sizes printed on the needle package refer to the diameter of the needle shaft. Most packages display both European (millimeter) and Canadian sizes 8–21 as follows: 60/8, 65/9, 70/10, 80/12, 90/14 etc., the higher the number, the larger the needle. (The opposite applies in hand sewing needles).
SHARP: Standard needle which has a sharp point. This point enables the needle to penetrate woven fabrics. Unsuitable for sewing knits as the sharp point cuts through the yarns causing runs or creating holes.
Universal: This needle has a slight rounded point and is the most common of all of the needles. It can be used with the majority of fabrics.
Quilting: This needle has a sharp, tapered point for piecing and quilting
Jeans/Denim: A must-have needle for sewing thick cottons or drapery hems, etc. The sharp point makes the straightest possible stitch, without leaving big holes. (you can use a Microtex 70/10 or 80/12 which is a similar type of needle, as a substitute).
Microtex Sharp: Sharp point/narrow eye (similar to Jeans/Denim needle). For use with microfibre fabrics and sand washed silk.
Metalfil: Specially treated to reduce friction when sewing with metallic threads. The design also assists in preventing thread fray.
Topstitching: The very large eye & deep grove help to keep the thread from fraying. Can also be used to quilt.
Embroidery: This needle is designed for decorative machine stitching using specialty threads such as sulky. The Shaft and eye are designed to help prevent the shredding of rayon and metallic threads.
metaLlica: Large eye, long Scarf, deep grooved needle. Designed to reduce friction when used with metallic and sliver threads.
bALL-POINT: The roundest tipped needle of all types. The design allows the needle to pass between the fibers. Can be used with any knitted fabric
STRETCH NEEDLES: Rounder head than the Universal, not as round as the ball point. The design ensures the needle pushes fibers aside. Great for sewing synthetic leathers, suede's and slinky knits.
LEATHER NEEDLE: It's wedge shaped point assists in penetrating the leather in a clean, neat step. Not good for use on regular fabric (it will shred) or synthetic leather or suede.
WING NEEDLE: (Hemstitch Needle). The wings on each side of the needle design give a ‘hole punched’ look to the fabric. Specially designed to create decorative hemstitch and heirloom effect
Double Hemstich: A double needle with a wing needle on the left side and a universal needle on the right side. Used for decorative/heirloom stitching.
TWIN/DOUBLE NEEDLES: Available in Embroidery, Metallica, Stretch or Jeans. Two needles mounted on a crossbar. The sizing on these needles refer to the distance between the needles as well as the size (i.e. 1.5/80). This means the needles are 1.5 mm apart and the size is 80. (Note. Check if your machine throat plate can accommodate the width of multiple needles – normally straight-stitch machines cannot.)
TRIPLE/DRILLING NEEDLES: Three needles on a crossbar. Check if your throat plate can handle the width.
Quilts & Seams
The quilt store for the discerning quilter
www.quiltsandseams.com
1276 Wellington Street West Ottawa, Ontario Canada K1Y 3A7
Telephone: (613)725-5113 F:(613)798-1952 E-mail: info@quiltsandseams.com |
